In recent months, a particular style of athletic shoes has experienced a significant resurgence in demand. A look at the material that is helping to make them popular again.

In the realm of footwear manufacturing, material selection plays a pivotal role in determining the quality, visual appeal, and market acceptance of the final product. Suede and nubuck, boasting similar visual characteristics, stand out as premium options that have experienced a resurgence in the athleisure market, especially through retro-inspired styles introduced by brands including adidas, New Balance, Nike and Puma. The enduring charm of suede and nubuck stems from an aesthetic and performance that are difficult to replicate. Unlike synthetic upper materials, these favourites offer a look and tactile sensation that is inherently distinctive. This individuality adds to their allure, making them sought-after choices for discerning consumers.

An introduction to suede

While many may associate suede with Elvis Presley’s rendition of ‘Blue Suede Shoes’, originally penned by Carl Perkins in 1955, the material’s roots lie in Europe. The term ‘suede’ originates from the French term ‘Gantes de Suède’, translating as gloves from Sweden, for which craftsmen had mastered a technique to create a velvety texture, known as ‘nap ’, on the reverse side, rather than the grain side, of gloving leather.

In modern manufacturing, bovine suede leather, distinct from nubuck, is often a co-product of the leather-making process. Typically, footwear upper materials like suede or grain leather are expected to be between 1.2 and 2.0 millimetres thick. However, most bovine leathers are heavier and require thickness correction during manufacturing to achieve a uniform grain leather. The excess material, known as the split, for which more detail is explained later, can then be repurposed to create suede by other manufacturers.

Through standard tannery processes, suede leather is crafted from the fibrous middle section of the leather, known technically as the corium, which exhibits a fibrous appearance on both sides. The desired aesthetic, whether a short or long nap, is achieved through a combination of process chemistry and physical processing.

In the case of suede, a rough nap is created through abrasive buffing with sandpaper. Contrastingly, nubuck is produced from grain leather, the upper part retaining the hair follicle pattern. Buffing the grain results in an exceptionally fine velvety nap, made possible by the unique fibre structure of the grain layer of the leather.

In the competitive realm of suede and nubuck, pigskin nubuck emerges as an intriguing option, esteemed for its luxurious texture. Positioned as a direct competitor to split suede, pigskin nubuck is touted by some manufacturers as offering a superior tactile experience, thereby enhancing the perceived value of footwear made from this material.

However, navigating challenges related to cultural and religious sensitivities underscores the importance of exercising awareness and sensitivity in its utilisation. This issue came to the forefront in 2023 when a leading brand had to recall certain products owing to the use of pigskin in its shoes, compounded by a lack of labelling to inform consumers.

Yield goals

Yield is a pivotal factor in the manufacturing process for any industry, and leather production is no exception. However, navigating the landscape of leather manufacturing can be perplexing. Raw materials (hides) are purchased by weight, undergo processing, and are then converted into materials sold, in most cases, by area. Therefore, it is in the manufacturer’s best interest to maximise yield through any available means.

When making suede, tanners use process chemistry and drying techniques tailored to optimise returns while producing a tight fibre suitable for the buffing process and achieving the desired nap. Although a soft leather with excellent yield may initially seem appealing because of its increased surface area, the open fibre structure it creates may not be the most conducive to quality suede.

In modern leather manufacturing and its associated supply chain, companies often prioritise yield in their claims. Chemical suppliers pledge yield increases, while machinery companies assure no loss of yield, or even yield gains. However, suede production deviates from this. To achieve the desired nap, some degree of yield loss is not only acceptable but sometimes necessary. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to experience upwards of a 15% shrinkage in area.

Grading challenges

For bovine suede and nubuck, grading poses different challenges and these materials require careful assessment to meet quality standards. The selection of premium hides is crucial, as the raw material’s inherent characteristics greatly impact the final product’s appearance and durability. Nubuck demands a clean grain, as minimal corrections can be made, leaving little room to conceal imperfections such as healed scars, insect bites or more problematic branding marks. This elevates the competition for raw materials, often overlapping with full grain leather productions.