In the case of suede leathers, where grain characteristics hold lesser if any, significance, the presence of veins becomes a major concern. Again, minimal correction or covering can be applied and in certain circumstances, the presence of veins within the corium structure may not be visible until after thickness alteration. For these reasons, the relationship between the tannery and the supplier is paramount.

Since most suede is derived from splits, its supply is closely tied to fluctuations in the grain leather market. As demand for grain leather varies, the split market encounters challenges in maintaining a consistent supply, highlighting the delicate balance required to sustain an uninterrupted supply chain for bovine suede. Many prefer US-sourced material owing to its consistent quality and price stability, though alternative sources exist. These alternatives often struggle to compete on price, reinforcing the dominance of US-sourced material in the market.

Clyde Leather in Scotland is one of the companies supplying suede to top athleisure footwear companies. Managing director, Richard Harris, has told World Footwear that the biggest and most important issue with suede sourcing now is competition from collagen and gelatine buyers. These buyers pay a premium and purchase the largest volume of split material. He emphasises the need for high-quality raw materials and good tannage to produce consistent suede, noting the technical challenges of maintaining consistent quality when using different sources of raw material and varying splitting techniques.

Regarding suede splits, there exists a notable global price disparity in terms of quality and availability. Despite the impact of covid-19, prices for decent suede material have remained relatively stable, experiencing a slight uptick in the early part of 2024 because of increased demand from Asian split tanneries. Industry commentators say this price trend is primarily driven by limited supply rather than by excessive demand, with much of the material, globally, being held in full substance until grain orders are received.

Wet blue splits are categorised into two main types: split in the wet blue and split in the lime. Split in the wet blue is preferred for light- to mid-weight suedes, often marketed as drop splits, with top-quality prices currently ranging from $1.40 to $1.50 per kilo.

Retro resurgence

On the other hand, split in the lime refers to heavier material, typically used in automotive applications. Prices for this type of split vary significantly. Northern European material without branding marks or holes, suitable for heavy suedes and leathergoods, can command prices as high as $2.90 to $3.00 per kilo. Argentinean or Uruguayan material, with holes and brands, falls within the price range of $1.80 to $2.10 per kilo.

Sportswear brands are using retro designs from past decades, tapping into nostalgia that older consumers feel for classic styles. Simultaneously, these designs are captivating younger generations who are encountering them for the first time. The revival or reimagining of older styles is viewed as a reliable strategy for expanding market presence, similar to the trend among filmmakers of rebooting beloved classics.

Nike, adidas, Puma, and New Balance are among the footwear brands at the forefront of the retro revival, putting suede in the limelight once more, often replacing synthetic alternatives that previously replaced leather.

Puma made history with the introduction of the Puma Suede shoe in 1968. Initially it was known as the Puma Crack, drawing inspiration from a term for a highly skilled individual. This marked the commercial debut of suede sneakers. Other companies were experimenting with suede as an upper material for athletic shoes around the same era, but Puma’s unveiling of the Suede Classic remains a seminal moment in sneaker history.

Adidas has contributed to this trend with the introduction of its Gazelle shoe, crafted from kangaroo velour, a type of reverse suede using the flesh side of kangaroo leather. Similarly, Nike left an indelible mark with the Nike Blazer in 1973, featuring suede uppers.